Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Free Pattern: Fast & Easy Fingerless Mitts

Red pair is made from Gedifra Fashion Trend Color; Brown pair is made from Malabrigo Merino Worsted.

After making about a gazillion pairs of these for Christmas gifts this year, each pair tweaked a bit from the last, I finally came up with what I believe to be an easy-peasy pattern for fingerless mitts that yields a lovely finished pair in very little time. You could easily do a pair in an evening if you're a fast knitter. I averaged one mitt per night, just because I get bored knitting the same thing for too long. I thought I'd share the pattern I came up with for anyone interested in giving them a try.

Yarn: 50 g of your favorite worsted weight (I use grams here rather than yardage because in every pair I made, I was able to get a pair out of a 50 gram ball, regardless of yardage, and I had a little bit left over.)

Needles: US 7

Abbreviations: K = knit; P = purl; SS = stockinette stitch; M1 = make one increase

Size: This pattern will fit an average woman's hand. After working the thumb, you can adjust the length of finger portion of the mitt to accommodate a number of hand sizes.

Both Mitts:

Cast on 34 stitches.

Work K1, P1 rib for 18 rows.

Work SS for 4 rows, ending on a purl row.

For Right Mitt:

K17, M1, k3, M1, K to end of row.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for 2 rows.

K17, M1, K5, M1, K to end of row.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for 2 rows.

K17, M1, K7, M1, K to end of row.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for 2 rows.

K17, M1, K9, M1, K to end of row.
Next row: Purl.

You should have 42 stitches at this point.

K28, turn work, P11.

For Left Mitt:

K14, M1, K3, M1, K to end.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for two rows.

K14, M1, K5, M1, K to end.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for two rows.

K14, M1, K7, M1, K to end.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for two rows.

K14, M1, K9, M1, K to end.
Next row: Purl.

You should have 42 stitches at this point.

K25, turn work, P11.

For Both Mitts:

On these 11 stitches, work K1, P1 rib for 4 more rows or until you reach desired thumb length. Bind off loosely. Break yarn leaving approximately 18" tail. With tail yarn, seam up thumb from top to bottom. After seaming, continue using tail yarn to pick up two stitches at the base of the thumb and then K to the end of the row. Rejoin yarn.

Next row: Purl.

Work remainder of the mitt in SS to desired length, minus one inch, ending on a purl row.

Work six rows of K1, P1 rib. Bind off loosely. Seam mitt down outside edge.

12 comments:

aspen said...

I cast on for these using some Noro Kureyon I had laying around (one of those "no project in mind" purchases.) I'm almost to the thumb on the first mitt and the pattern is working out great so far. Thanks for sharing it!

Lisa B. said...

Oh good! I'm glad you're enjoying it. I did a pair out of Kureyon as well...I love how they come out looking totally different due to the wide color variegations of the yarn. I'd love to see a picture of yours when you're done!

Sarah said...

I love these gloves! Did you use regular needles or round needles?
Thanks!

Lisa B. said...

Hi Sarah...so glad you like them! I knit them flat (though I used circular needles because I almost always do) and seamed them up the outside edge. You could totally do them in the round, though...just put them thumb stitches on a holder and pick them up once the rest of the mitt is done.

Anonymous said...

so this is the first time I have ventured out on my own and found a pattern the read by myself and knit without a class or friend instruction. I have made it all the way to purled 11 stitches (thumb part). once I knit the 18 and then turn work and purl the 11 do I have to continue turning the work with each row until I get the thumb long enough?

I love the pattern, and found it to be very easy to understand. Its a great pattern to use when you are branching out on your own to find projects you enjoy.

Anonymous said...

I meant once I knit the 28

Lisa B. said...

Yes, after you've worked the 28 and purled back the 11, you continue working back and forth on the 11 stitches only until you reach the desired thumb length. HTH! :)

Anonymous said...

I'm still pretty new to knitting and I have a question. I don't have size 7 needles, but I do have 6 and 8, would it be ok to knit these with those? I figured it may take more or less yarn depending on the needles, but would it greatly alter the pattern if I just change the needles by one size?

Lisa B. said...

Well, what's most important in any project is getting gauge with the yarn you're using. The needles in the pattern are the recommended size, but depending on how you knit (tight or loose), it isn't uncommon to go up or down a needle size to get gauge. The best thing to do is swatch. Do one swatch using the 6s and one doing the 8s and see if you are getting gauge with either of them and then adjust as necessary.

That said, if you're not into swatching for small project like this, it probably would not be the end of the world to just wing it. If you're using a worsted weight yarn as recommended in the pattern, I'd say go with the 8s, unless you are a very loose knitter, then try the 6s first. Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions about the pattern.

Anonymous said...

I have smallish hands & like tighter mittens, so I knit these up on size 4's & they turned out perfectly. Great pattern!

jenthegypsy said...

Hi - I'm a relatively new knitter and this is the first pair of gloves I'm attempting. So far, so good. Now though, I'm at the "seam the thumb" part. What is your recommended way of seaming? From the inside or the outside? Do you use the mattress stitch? Thanks for the pattern and the advice!

Lisa B. said...

Hi Jen...glad you're enjoying the pattern! Yes, I use mattress stitch to seam the thumb, with right sides facing. HTH! :)