Free Pattern: Seesaw Scarf

In the midst of a lot of time consuming knitting recently, I felt the need to create something bright and fun that would finish quickly. I had some odd skeins of Noro Kureyon sitting around, their colorfulness just screaming at me to do something with them. Thus, I came up with this scarf pattern. It's a pretty easy knit, even for newer knitters.

Seesaw Scarf

This scarf is built from a series of garter-stitch short rows that create wedged sections of fabric that alternate in direction. Once you understand the wrap and turn technique, this will be a fairly quick and easy project. I loved how it turned out with the colorful Kureyon, but due to the design the pattern creates, it also looks nice done up in a solid.

Yarn: 2 skeins Noro Kureyon (220 yds.)

Needles: US 9 needles

Gauge: 4 stitches/inch in garter stitch. Getting gauge is not critical to this project. Just be sure to use the correct size needles for whatever yarn you choose so that you get a fabric that is pleasing to you.

Finished size: approximately 5” x 54”. Note that this pattern will not result in a rectangular-shaped scarf. It will either be an isosceles trapezoid (if you work an odd number of pattern repeats) or a parallelogram (if you work an even number of pattern repeats). Do whichever pleases you.

Key:

W&T – (Wrap and turn) Move yarn to the front (between the needles, as you would to purl), slip the next stitch, move yarn to the back, return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Turn work around to begin the next row.

Pattern:

Cast on 20 stitches.

Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K18, W&T.
Row 3 and all remaining odd rows: Move yarn to back (between needles), knit across.
Row 4: K 16, W&T.
Row 6: K14, W&T.
Row 8: K12, W&T.
Row 10: K10, W&T.
Row 12: K8, W&T.
Row 14: K6, W&T.
Row 16: K4, W&T.
Row 18: K2, W&T.

Repeat rows 1-19 for the remainder of the scarf, either until you’ve run out of yarn or you’ve reached your desired length.

After finishing your final pattern sequence, ending with Row 19, repeat Row 1 once more.

Bind off loosely.

Block or don’t block. Your choice.

Seesaw Scarf in Noro Kureyon.

























Sample swatch of Seesaw pattern done in solid.

© 2007 Lisa Beamer, a.k.a. Fibernymph ~ This pattern is free to use and share for personal use only with this copyright notice attached.

E-mail: fibernymph@comcast.net

Free Pattern: Fast & Easy Fingerless Mitts

Red pair is made from Gedifra Fashion Trend Color; Brown pair is made from Malabrigo Merino Worsted.

After making about a gazillion pairs of these for Christmas gifts this year, each pair tweaked a bit from the last, I finally came up with what I believe to be an easy-peasy pattern for fingerless mitts that yields a lovely finished pair in very little time. You could easily do a pair in an evening if you're a fast knitter. I averaged one mitt per night, just because I get bored knitting the same thing for too long. I thought I'd share the pattern I came up with for anyone interested in giving them a try.

(Note added 1/20/10 - I've written a second version of this pattern for those who would like to knit these mitts in the round instead of flat. You'll find the circular version here.)

Yarn: 50 g of your favorite worsted weight (I use grams here rather than yardage because in every pair I made, I was able to get a pair out of a 50 gram ball, regardless of yardage, and I had a little bit left over.)

Needles: US 7

Abbreviations: K = knit; P = purl; SS = stockinette stitch; M1 = make one increase

Size: This pattern will fit an average woman's hand. After working the thumb, you can adjust the length of finger portion of the mitt to accommodate a number of hand sizes.

Both Mitts:

Cast on 34 stitches.

Work K1, P1 rib for 18 rows.

Work SS for 4 rows, ending on a purl row.

For Right Mitt:

K17, M1, k3, M1, K to end of row.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for 2 rows.

K17, M1, K5, M1, K to end of row.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for 2 rows.

K17, M1, K7, M1, K to end of row.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for 2 rows.

K17, M1, K9, M1, K to end of row.
Next row: Purl.

You should have 42 stitches at this point.

K28, turn work, P11.

For Left Mitt:

K14, M1, K3, M1, K to end.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for two rows.

K14, M1, K5, M1, K to end.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for two rows.

K14, M1, K7, M1, K to end.
Next row: Purl.
Work SS for two rows.

K14, M1, K9, M1, K to end.
Next row: Purl.

You should have 42 stitches at this point.

K25, turn work, P11.

For Both Mitts:

On these 11 stitches, work K1, P1 rib for 4 more rows or until you reach desired thumb length. Bind off loosely. Break yarn leaving approximately 18" tail. With tail yarn, seam up thumb from top to bottom. After seaming, continue using tail yarn to pick up two stitches at the base of the thumb and then K to the end of the row. Rejoin yarn.

Next row: Purl.

Work remainder of the mitt in SS to desired length, minus one inch, ending on a purl row.

Work six rows of K1, P1 rib. Bind off loosely. Seam mitt down outside edge.

Free Pattern: Undulate Scarf

I've had this pattern ready to share for a while, but I needed good pictures to go with it. Today was the day I got that done, so, without further ado, a new free pattern for you, just in time for the changing weather and for the holidays, if you're in need of a soft, warming gift for someone!


I named this scarf "Undulate" because that's what it does, the pattern gently going back and forth yielding a subtle serpentine. I made this one from Malabrigo Merino Worsted (it only takes one skein), so it is incredibly soft. I didn't block it because I liked the squishy feel of it as it was, but if you wanted to block it to open up the width, you certainly could.

(By the way, if the yarn looks familiar, it may be because it was the same yarn I used last year for one of the pairs of Fast & Easy Fingerless Mitts featured with that pattern.)

Undulate

Edited: An error was brought to my attention in Row 8, which is now fixed. It should say "Repeat row 6." If you printed this pattern out prior to 1/2/09, please make note of the change. Thanks, and sorry for any confusion!

Yarn: Malabrigo Merino Worsted, 150 yards

Needles: US 7

Gauge: 4 stitches/inch (it is not essential to get gauge on this project)

Finished Size: 4” x 68”

Directions:

Cast on 30 stitches.

Rows 1 – 4: K3, P3 across row.

Row 5: P1, [K3, P3] repeat to last two stitches (ending with knits), P2
Row 6: K2, [P3, K3] repeat to last stitch (ending with purls), K1.
Row 7: Repeat row 5.
Row 8: Repeat row 6.

Row 9: P2, [K3, P3] repeat to last stitch (ending with knits), P1
Row 10: K1, [P3, K3] repeat to last two stitches (ending with purls), K2
Row 11: Repeat row 9.
Row 12: Repeat row 10.

Rows 13 - 16: P3, K3 across row.

Row 17: K1, [P3, K3] repeat to last two stitches (ending with purls), K2
Row 18: P2, [K3, P3] repeat to last stitch (ending with knits), P1
Row 19: Repeat row 17.
Row 20: Repeat row 18.

Row 21: K2, [P3, K3] repeat to last stitch (ending with purls), K1
Row 22: P1, [K3, P3] repeat to last two stitches (ending with knits), P2
Row 23: Repeat row 21.
Row 24: Repeat row 22.

Rows 25 – 28: K3, P3 across row.

Row 29: K2, [P3, K3] repeat to last stitch (ending with purls), K1
Row 30: P1, [K3, P3] repeat to last two stitches (ending with knits), P2
Row 31: Repeat row 29.
Row 32: Repeat row 30.

Row 33: K1, [P3, K3] repeat to last two stitches (ending with purls), K2
Row 34: P2, [K3, P3] repeat to last stitch (ending with knits), P1
Row 35: Repeat row 33.
Row 36: Repeat row 34.

Rows 37 – 40: P3, K3 across row.

Row 41: P2, [K3, P3] repeat to last stitch (ending with knits), P1
Row 42: K1, [P3, K3] repeat to last two stitches (ending with purls), K2
Row 43: Repeat row 41.
Row 44: Repeat row 42.

Row 45: P1, [K3, P3] repeat to last two stitches (ending with knits), P2
Row 46: K2, [P3, K3] repeat to last stitch (ending with purls), K1.
Row 47: Repeat row 45.
Row 48: Repeat row 46.

Repeat rows 1 – 48 six more times or until you reach your desired length.

Bind off loosely.

A gratuitous photo of my daughter, just because I think she's pretty, but then I'm biased. LOL
Actually, she was a little annoyed by this point, because she was cold and it was snowing,
and I kept saying, "Just one more!"

Fast & Easy Fingerless Mitts, v.2 - Circular

I've been getting a lot of questions recently about my Fast & Easy Fingerless Mitts pattern from people who want to do them in the round. I made them that way myself recently, so I was able to write up a circular version of the pattern. Now you can do them either way -- flat or in the round! If you have any questions about the pattern, feel free to e-mail me at fibernymph AT comcast DOT net, or leave your question in the comments.

And a big thank you to test knitter Cindy Neff on this version of the pattern! :)

Fast & Easy Fingerless Mitts v2 - Circular

This pattern is written to use either the Magic Loop method or two circular needles, as the pattern will refer to Needle #1 and Needle #2. If your preferred circular method involves DPNs, I'd recommend dividing the stitches designated for Needle #1 between two DPN's and using a third for the stitches designated for Needle #2.

Unlike the original pattern, which was worked differently for the left and right mitts, this circular version allows you to work both mitts using the same instructions.

Yarn: 50g of your favorite worsted weight (I use 50g instead of yardage as every pair of these I've made, I have gotten a pair from a 50g ball with a little yarn left over). Mitts shown here were made from Lorna's Laces Shepherd Worsted Multi.

Needles: US7, either one 32" circular for Magic Loop or two 24" circulars.

Gauge: 4 - 4.5 stitches per inch

Size: This pattern will make a mitt that will fit an average woman's hand. Feel free to adjust the length of the cuff, thumb and finger portions to meet your needs. (Adding to the size may require more than one ball of yarn.)

Directions:

Cast on 34 stitches. Divide stitches so that there are 21 stitches on Needle #1 (the front needle) and 13 stitches on Needle #2 (the back needle).

Taking care not to twist stitches, join to knit in the round, working K1, P1 ribbing for 18 rounds.

Work 4 rounds of stockinette.

To form thumb gusset:

On Needle #1: K17, M1, K3, M1, K1 (total 23 stitches)

K all stitches on Needle #2.

K all stitches on both needles for next three rounds.

Repeat these three thumb gusset steps twice more for a total of 27 stitches on Needle #1.

Do one more increase round -- for a total of 29 stitches on Needle #1 -- followed by one round of stockinette. You will now have a total of 42 stitches on both needles.

Setting aside thumb stitches:

On Needle #1, K17, slip the next 11 stitches onto a small stitch holder or waste yarn, K1.

K all stitches on Needle #2.

Continue to work remaining 31 hand stitches in stockinette until you reach the desired length minus 1". (When joining stitches on Needle 1 where thumb gusset stitches have been taken off, be sure to tightly snug up the yarn to avoid a large gap.)

Finish hand section by working 1" of K1, P1 ribbing. On first round of ribbing, you will need to P2tog the last two stitches of the round, so you have a total of 30 stitches. Bind off loosely.

Work the thumb:

Divide the 11 saved thumb gusset stitches between two needles and work in K1, P1 rib. When you get to the gap where the thumb meets the hand stitches, pick up 3 additional stitches to close the gap. Work them into the K1, P1 pattern on the following round. Work the thumb for 1" or desired length. Cast off loosely.

Weave in all ends.

Pattern: Twisted & Twining

My Twisted & Twining Cowl pattern is now available for purchase!

Twisted & Twining is made from 130 yards of sportweight yarn (sadly, an often overlooked weight of yarn). This sample was made from one skein of Frog Tree Alpaca Sportweight.

The cowl is quite versatile, with wearing options to keep neck, face and ears warm. The cables and twisted stitch motifs provide a close but comfortable, stretchy fit. The pattern is sized for 13", 14 1/2" and 16" necks, and it includes instructions for traditional cabling technique as well as the steps for doing the cables without a cable needle.

It's only February, and despite what the groundhog said, the 7" of snow that appeared in my  yard overnight tells me that winter isn't quite finished. That means there is plenty of time to get some use from a cowl! Why not spruce up your winter wardrobe with this quick knit?

$3.00

Pulpie

Pulpie, a fun little piece of orange juice pulp, was created in response to my teenage daughter’s ongoing references to her great dislike of pulp in her juice, to which I heartily agreed. Pulp = ick. The other day, however, the vision of this happy little guy popped into my mind, and I decided I must make him!

After knitting Pulpie, I realized his shape would make a wonderful rain droplet (or tear drop) as well as an aptly shaped candy corn, or a very dimensional flower petal. Once stuffed, you can shape him to be rounded or squish him a bit for a flatter appearance. And Pulpie is a great project to make with leftover yarn from other projects.

So, here you go, my first pattern for the new year, and it's a freebie to boot!

Mateirals:

About 20 yards of worsted weight yarn. (Pulpie was made from Plymouth Encore; Val, the Valentine’s Day candy corn, was knit out of Cascade 220 and Cascade 220 Superwash.)

US4 DPNs

Scrap yarn for stitching eyes, mouth, etc. Or, you can use small buttons or plastic eyes that have snap-on backs that hold them in place (usually found in the googly-eye section of craft stores). If knitting this for a young child, I do not recommend using the buttons or plastic eyes, as they could be a choking hazard if they came off.

Polyfil or yarn/fiber scraps suitable for stuffing

One locking stitch marker.

Tapestry needle.

Notes:

Gauge for this project is not essential. You just want to make sure your resulting fabric is snug enough that the stuffing will not poke through the stitches.

Finished size is approximately 4” tall and 7 ½” in circumference at the widest part.

Abbreviations:

K – knit

Kfb – knit front and back

Pfb – purl front and back

K2tog – knit two together
SSK – slip, slip, knit

Directions:

Cast on 2 stitches.

Row 1: Kfb (4 stitches)

Row 2: Kfb (8 stitches)

[Note: This project is mostly worked in the round knitting each row, but these first two rows are just
easier to work flat instead of in the round, I find. Technically, to keep the project all stockinette, Row 2 should be purled, not knitted. However, I do not find the task of purling front and back an enjoyable one. Since this will be on the base of the stuffie, I have no qualms about it being an odd row of garter stitch. If it bothers you, though, feel free to Pfb instead.]

Divide stitches evenly across four DPNs, two per needle. You will now be working in the round. Be careful not to twist your stitches as you join.

Round 1: Knit

Round 2: Kfb (16 stitches, 4 per needle)

Round 3: Knit

Round 4: Kfb (32 stitches, 8 per needle)

Round 5: Knit

Round 6: *[K, Kfb,], repeat from *. (48 stitches, 12 per needle)

Rounds 7 – 14: Knit (this will add approximately 1” from last increase round).

Round 15: [K2tog, K8, SSK], repeat three more times.

Rounds 16 – 19: Knit (this will add approximately ¾” from first decrease round).

(Note: if doing a candy corn, Row 18 is a good place to change to your second color. Overlap your tail yarns with the working yarn on the inside of the stuffie for several stitches, snugging them up as needed, in order to anchor them and not have a visible gap.)

Round 20: [K2tog, K6, SSK], repeat three more times.

Rounds 21 – 24: Knit (this will add approximately ¾” from second decrease round).

At this point, you will want to add your eyes and mouth. Also use your cast on tail to cinch up any hole that might have resulted after you joined to knit in the round. Weave the tail in a bit and then pull it through to the inside of the stuffie where it can stay forever. Add your stuffing to this lower part of the stuffie at this point before continuing. It’s easier to add the stuffing as you go since the stuffie narrows as you go up.

Round 25: [K2tog, K4, SSK], repeat three more times.

Rounds 26 – 30: Knit (this will add approximately 1” from the third decrease round).

(Note: if doing a candy corn, Row 26 is a good place to change to your third color, again overlapping the tails to prevent a hole.)

Round 31: [K2tog, K2, SSK], repeat three more times.

Rounds 32 – 35: Knit

If you haven’t been doing so, add more stuffing now.

Round 36: [K2tog, SSK], repeat three more times.

Round 37: K2tog four times

Last chance to squeeze in some stuffing for the top!

Break yarn, leaving a 10” tail. With tail on tapestry needle, run tail yarn through remaining four stitches and cinch them up. At the back of the top, weave the tail yarn in and out a bit, as inconspicuously as possible. Now, take the needle and run it down through the inside of your stuffie, pulling it out the bottom. Snip the tail yarn off as close to the body as possible, then smoosh it around a bit to let the end pop back inside, never to be seen again.

Name him.

Squish him.

Love him.

Make him a friend.